I’m here in Ethiopia for a second time in six months. It’s an exhilarating country and one of much contrast. I’m pleased to be back and staying with Ben and Margot and their cat, Bole. My wife, Mary, my daughter, Laura and her friend Sophie are with me. After spending a weekend in the capital, Addis Ababa; a disorganised bustling earthy city where shacks and huts sit alongside new high-rise buildings and where none of the roads are named and signposts non existent, we headed off on our own to Lalibela and it’s marvellous collection of 12th century churches hewn out of the rock surface. There are at least eleven churches to visit, all built over twenty-three years and each incredible. Built at a time before any mechanisation, they are perfectly constructed and cut out of the rock surface; some dug down into the ground, some cut out from the side of a hill. One man, King Lalibela, designed and organised their construction.
After Lalibela we went on a mountain trek and stayed the night in an Ethiopian village. We slept in a round Tukul constructed of mud and straw and without any electricity, running water or a WC. The views were stunning and always took your breath away. We were 10,000 feet up; and with a sheer drop a few paces from the door of our Tukuls. Women from the local village cooked us a delicious dinner which we ate around a wood fire. During the night, if nature called we just turned over and went to sleep and hoped the call would go away!
The following morning we travelled to Gheralta Lodge in the Tigray region of Ethiopia and met up with Ben and Margot. Here we walked again, this time to visit more of the rock-hewn churches, but unlike the ones in Lalibela, they were built at the top of a mountain. Mary and I miraculously managed to follow Ben and Margot and our guide up to the top of a mountain to see one of these churches. When we got there, we looked down to see the tiny speck that was the vehicle that had brought us to the start point. We gasped. We could not believe we were so high and that we (Mary and I) had managed the scary ascent.
After Gheralta Lodge, we returned to Addis Ababa and relaxed in Ben and Margot’s comfortable and peaceful house and garden and enjoyed a couple of excellent meals in the city before we flew home.
There are three things that stick in my mind about my trips to Ethiopia. The countryside and scenery are beautiful, the people are charming and Ben and Margot are a great couple and extremely hospitable.
Tuesday, 21 June 2011
Sunday, 27 February 2011
I'M BACK
Yes, I know. I’m sorry for the complete radio silence from me for the past few months. It’s a real shame that I’ve let my blogging slip away - I guess I’ve lost almost all of the audience I had. The trouble is that I’ve been busy and tired. As I spend quite a lot of my day on a computer, I tend to try to avoid spending my Sunday evenings typing away. But I let the time build up so much that I became a bit embarrassed by my blog, and too ashamed to admit that I needed to do something about it. A bit like debt I guess. Anyway, it feels good to be back on the keyboard. I hope I can keep it up.
There has been some real highlights over the last few months. One of the best has to be my Dad’s visit back in November - he’s the last blog entry. We spent a few days in the wonderful Geralta lodge, in eastern Tigray (in the very north of Ethiopia). The lodge is run by an Italian couple. It’s made of a series of Tigray-style farm houses, made in local stone, in a round shape with thatched roofs. The inside is comfortably fitted out, and all the water comes from wells on the compound. There are great views of the Geralta mountains. The food is authentic and rustic Italian fare, with an Ethiopian twist. While the Lodge is by far one of the very best hotels in Ethiopia, the real highlight are the rock-hewn churches built into the mountains nearby. The mountains stick out from the ground like fingers, scorched dry by the sun. Built into the mountains and carved out on top are churches which were chiseled from the rock centuries ago. We visited two churches, one with beautiful frescos. The other was set on top of a mountain, with a 300 meter sheer cliff face in from of the church. A tunnel running behind the church houses the pilgrims who venture up the mountain most days to sing from 3am. Inside in a series of roughly chipped pillars and candlelit walls. Outside are priests chanting over a microphone and banging the Ethiopian christian drum - the “kebero”. The church is a fantastic combination of devoutness, colour, breath-taking views and sheer craziness.
Another highlight has to be the Simien mountains. I visited these mountains with my friend Andrew. The mountains are north of Gonder (which itself is north of Lake Tana, the source of the Nile). We hiked for five days, getting progressively more dirty, more hairy, and more smelly. We stayed in pretty basic camp sites, but ate well every night thanks to our cook who put together some fantastic dishes, while wearing whites and a chef’s hat. The views were just amazing - it felt like something out of lord of the rings - you could see for miles, sitting on cliffs perched over beautifully green countryside, with the sound of invisible children spilling out everywhere. The nights were icy cold, due to the height. Every morning, there was frost on the ground, and on occasions snow. We wet up to 4450 meters, which is the highest I’ve ever been on foot. Between breathless gasps, I saw eagles, buzzards and vultures. We also saw numerous Gilida baboons (called bleeding heart baboons, due to the blood red triangle on their chests). We also saw three Ibexes, which were like large rain deer. Astonishing animals.
Other highlights include the timkit celebrations in Addis, which celebrate epiphany, which saw Addis become a city of colour, bells, flags for the day. Roads were blocked with partying kids helping carry their church’s “ark of the covenant.” But above all, the best highlight has to be christmas eve. We had Margot’s parents here, and were just about to sit down for dinner (roast duck bought from the only duck farmer in Ethiopia). We had opened all our presents. Except Margot had one more. A ring! After six years, I thought it was about time that I popped the question. Luckily she said yes. And it turned out to be a fantastic christmas. June 23 2012. Lets hope our wedding will have some of the colour, noise and joy that I’ve seen in Ethiopia in the last few months.
There has been some real highlights over the last few months. One of the best has to be my Dad’s visit back in November - he’s the last blog entry. We spent a few days in the wonderful Geralta lodge, in eastern Tigray (in the very north of Ethiopia). The lodge is run by an Italian couple. It’s made of a series of Tigray-style farm houses, made in local stone, in a round shape with thatched roofs. The inside is comfortably fitted out, and all the water comes from wells on the compound. There are great views of the Geralta mountains. The food is authentic and rustic Italian fare, with an Ethiopian twist. While the Lodge is by far one of the very best hotels in Ethiopia, the real highlight are the rock-hewn churches built into the mountains nearby. The mountains stick out from the ground like fingers, scorched dry by the sun. Built into the mountains and carved out on top are churches which were chiseled from the rock centuries ago. We visited two churches, one with beautiful frescos. The other was set on top of a mountain, with a 300 meter sheer cliff face in from of the church. A tunnel running behind the church houses the pilgrims who venture up the mountain most days to sing from 3am. Inside in a series of roughly chipped pillars and candlelit walls. Outside are priests chanting over a microphone and banging the Ethiopian christian drum - the “kebero”. The church is a fantastic combination of devoutness, colour, breath-taking views and sheer craziness.
Another highlight has to be the Simien mountains. I visited these mountains with my friend Andrew. The mountains are north of Gonder (which itself is north of Lake Tana, the source of the Nile). We hiked for five days, getting progressively more dirty, more hairy, and more smelly. We stayed in pretty basic camp sites, but ate well every night thanks to our cook who put together some fantastic dishes, while wearing whites and a chef’s hat. The views were just amazing - it felt like something out of lord of the rings - you could see for miles, sitting on cliffs perched over beautifully green countryside, with the sound of invisible children spilling out everywhere. The nights were icy cold, due to the height. Every morning, there was frost on the ground, and on occasions snow. We wet up to 4450 meters, which is the highest I’ve ever been on foot. Between breathless gasps, I saw eagles, buzzards and vultures. We also saw numerous Gilida baboons (called bleeding heart baboons, due to the blood red triangle on their chests). We also saw three Ibexes, which were like large rain deer. Astonishing animals.
Other highlights include the timkit celebrations in Addis, which celebrate epiphany, which saw Addis become a city of colour, bells, flags for the day. Roads were blocked with partying kids helping carry their church’s “ark of the covenant.” But above all, the best highlight has to be christmas eve. We had Margot’s parents here, and were just about to sit down for dinner (roast duck bought from the only duck farmer in Ethiopia). We had opened all our presents. Except Margot had one more. A ring! After six years, I thought it was about time that I popped the question. Luckily she said yes. And it turned out to be a fantastic christmas. June 23 2012. Lets hope our wedding will have some of the colour, noise and joy that I’ve seen in Ethiopia in the last few months.
Saturday, 4 December 2010
Guest Blog - Nick Wastnage (aka "Dad")
My amazing eight days in Ethiopia started in Addis Adaba, a city of many extremes. It’s bustling, noisy, dusty and dirty, but exhilarating. The traffic obeys no rules. There isn’t a single sign on any road saying where you are, nor any signposts to help you find your way. Often a few cows stray across the road, a heard of sheep halt your car or a goat appears in the lane next to you. It’s certainly interesting.
After a couple of days in the city we flew to Mekele and onto the to the Gheralta Lodge, a stylish and simple hotel situated in Tigray, an area of ten thousand foot mountains with 4th century churches at the top and carved out of the rock face. In Tigray the countryside and scenery is just outstanding, making me gasp and simply stare in amazement many times. Early one morning, with the sun rising above the Gheralta mountains, the air crystal clear, clean and chilly, I took a stroll down the garden to the hotel’s potager. All was quiet and peaceful, the sky was blue and cloudless, a couple of sheep wandered by, an ox walked slowly in front of me and spectacular multi-coloured birds flew by and flitted around. This was truly an African morning and very different from anything I’ve ever experienced before.
I will have many lasting memories of this beautiful country. I’ll try to name a few. The spectacular scenery that left me at a loss for words, the constant accompaniment of children wanting to try out their English. ‘What is your name. ‘What do you do?’ they’d ask and a flood of questions about football would follow. Once, I told a gaggle of about six boys my name, that I was a writer and yes, I did like football. That was it - from then on, during a one a half hour walk up a steep mountain when I was trying to concentrate on placing my foot on a firm rock, rather than a loose one which would have sent me cascading down the mountain, I was bombarded with questions about Chelsea, Manchester United, Arsenal, Spurs, Wayne Rooney and Frank Lampard.
I can’t finish without mentioning the Ethiopians. An immensely proud people who are friendly, helpful and happy despite having none of the things that we take for granted in the West. I wish them well and hope the many developments in the country will bring them what they want.
I enjoyed every moment of my time in this country and sadly have to catch the plan home tonight to return to a cold UK. I’ll certainly return, in fact I’m already planning the next visit. I recommend a trip here to anyone who wants a very different and exciting holiday, one full of breathtaking sites, stunning weather, a real African experience and an opportunity to see life from a different perspective.
Thank you Ben and Margot for making me so welcome and my stay so good.
After a couple of days in the city we flew to Mekele and onto the to the Gheralta Lodge, a stylish and simple hotel situated in Tigray, an area of ten thousand foot mountains with 4th century churches at the top and carved out of the rock face. In Tigray the countryside and scenery is just outstanding, making me gasp and simply stare in amazement many times. Early one morning, with the sun rising above the Gheralta mountains, the air crystal clear, clean and chilly, I took a stroll down the garden to the hotel’s potager. All was quiet and peaceful, the sky was blue and cloudless, a couple of sheep wandered by, an ox walked slowly in front of me and spectacular multi-coloured birds flew by and flitted around. This was truly an African morning and very different from anything I’ve ever experienced before.
I will have many lasting memories of this beautiful country. I’ll try to name a few. The spectacular scenery that left me at a loss for words, the constant accompaniment of children wanting to try out their English. ‘What is your name. ‘What do you do?’ they’d ask and a flood of questions about football would follow. Once, I told a gaggle of about six boys my name, that I was a writer and yes, I did like football. That was it - from then on, during a one a half hour walk up a steep mountain when I was trying to concentrate on placing my foot on a firm rock, rather than a loose one which would have sent me cascading down the mountain, I was bombarded with questions about Chelsea, Manchester United, Arsenal, Spurs, Wayne Rooney and Frank Lampard.
I can’t finish without mentioning the Ethiopians. An immensely proud people who are friendly, helpful and happy despite having none of the things that we take for granted in the West. I wish them well and hope the many developments in the country will bring them what they want.
I enjoyed every moment of my time in this country and sadly have to catch the plan home tonight to return to a cold UK. I’ll certainly return, in fact I’m already planning the next visit. I recommend a trip here to anyone who wants a very different and exciting holiday, one full of breathtaking sites, stunning weather, a real African experience and an opportunity to see life from a different perspective.
Thank you Ben and Margot for making me so welcome and my stay so good.
Wednesday, 10 November 2010
Trekking Photos
A few weeks ago Margot and I went trekking with TESFA, near Lalibela. I'll report more in the coming days (I know, I know!), but you can check out some of my photos on www.gallery.me.com/benwastnage Click onto the TESFA link.
Sunday, 31 October 2010
Lake Langano
Margot and I are spending the weekend at Lake Langano, hiring a hidden away bungalow. I feel like we’ve found our own little world.
Lake Langano is one of the rift valley lakes, about three-four hours drive south of Addis. The Lake is amazingly peaceful. There are no cars, no people shouting “frenji, frenji”, and just the gentle squawks of a fantastic selection of rift valley birds. The lake is bordered by impressive mountain ridges, sits at 1,500 meters (a whole km less than Addis) and has a surface area of about 230 km squared (I measured it). While the lake is the only lake safe for swimming in Ethiopia, the water is a vey muddy, brown colour. Apparently this is due to its high mineral content. Yet, while I’ve been promised that there are no crocodiles and hippos only appear during rainy season, you can’t help thinking what lurks at the bottom of the dark lake.
The bungalow is basic, but great fun. It has a small kitchen and a couple of bedrooms. The kitchen is good for cooking, but it’s normal to load up the car with a weekend’s supply of beers, pizza, snacks, and other goodies. The place is powered off a battery, charged during the day by solar power. It means that you need to turn all the lights off during the day, and keep your fingers crossed at night. The shower and toilet are connected directly to the Lake: While the water is clean, it’s slightly odd showering in water that’s the same colour as the muck under your toe-nails. The bungalow is ten meters away from the lake, and walking down to the water this morning, I felt warm sand on my feet for the first time in over a year. It’s a strange feeling when you swim, as in many ways you feel like you’re at the beach, but is not that salty taste in your mouth. Margot and I have been out canoeeing as well, and trying to top up on the tan (Margot, not me - I stay red). Tonight, we’re lighting a fire on the beach, taking out some blankets, and watching the shooting stars while eating roasted marshmallows. Bliss.
What was not bliss however was the drive down. I am really starting to love Ethiopia. But I don’t think any degree of warmth will ever allow me to like Ethiopian drivers. They are the worse in the world (in my mind). You go to overtake, and then you have a small horse-driven cart trying to over-take you are the same time. You drive up hill, and you’ll find two lorry drivers, one in each lane, grinding their loads uphill at a painful pace, talking to each other through their windows. There are donkeys and horses standing in the Ethiopian version of the M1 (in fairness, this isn’t the drivers fault). And best of all, you be happily driving in your land, turn a corner, and find a car coming towards you in the wrong lane (i.e. your lane) at 120 kph, flashing and beeping because it can’t be bothered to move back into it’s own lane. Driving down here, I reckon Margot and I lost three of our nine lives (and we’ve still got to go back).
But driving aside, a great weekend. And a great place to bring friends and family.
Lake Langano is one of the rift valley lakes, about three-four hours drive south of Addis. The Lake is amazingly peaceful. There are no cars, no people shouting “frenji, frenji”, and just the gentle squawks of a fantastic selection of rift valley birds. The lake is bordered by impressive mountain ridges, sits at 1,500 meters (a whole km less than Addis) and has a surface area of about 230 km squared (I measured it). While the lake is the only lake safe for swimming in Ethiopia, the water is a vey muddy, brown colour. Apparently this is due to its high mineral content. Yet, while I’ve been promised that there are no crocodiles and hippos only appear during rainy season, you can’t help thinking what lurks at the bottom of the dark lake.
The bungalow is basic, but great fun. It has a small kitchen and a couple of bedrooms. The kitchen is good for cooking, but it’s normal to load up the car with a weekend’s supply of beers, pizza, snacks, and other goodies. The place is powered off a battery, charged during the day by solar power. It means that you need to turn all the lights off during the day, and keep your fingers crossed at night. The shower and toilet are connected directly to the Lake: While the water is clean, it’s slightly odd showering in water that’s the same colour as the muck under your toe-nails. The bungalow is ten meters away from the lake, and walking down to the water this morning, I felt warm sand on my feet for the first time in over a year. It’s a strange feeling when you swim, as in many ways you feel like you’re at the beach, but is not that salty taste in your mouth. Margot and I have been out canoeeing as well, and trying to top up on the tan (Margot, not me - I stay red). Tonight, we’re lighting a fire on the beach, taking out some blankets, and watching the shooting stars while eating roasted marshmallows. Bliss.
What was not bliss however was the drive down. I am really starting to love Ethiopia. But I don’t think any degree of warmth will ever allow me to like Ethiopian drivers. They are the worse in the world (in my mind). You go to overtake, and then you have a small horse-driven cart trying to over-take you are the same time. You drive up hill, and you’ll find two lorry drivers, one in each lane, grinding their loads uphill at a painful pace, talking to each other through their windows. There are donkeys and horses standing in the Ethiopian version of the M1 (in fairness, this isn’t the drivers fault). And best of all, you be happily driving in your land, turn a corner, and find a car coming towards you in the wrong lane (i.e. your lane) at 120 kph, flashing and beeping because it can’t be bothered to move back into it’s own lane. Driving down here, I reckon Margot and I lost three of our nine lives (and we’ve still got to go back).
But driving aside, a great weekend. And a great place to bring friends and family.
Sunday, 10 October 2010
Meta Beer
Firstly, sorry for the lack of blogs recently. A couple will be posted this week. Managed to fall behind again!
This afternoon, Margot and I visited the Meta Beer brewery. It's about 30 kilometres outside of Addis. It is best to describe it as a compound, with a waterfall at its centre. You pay to get in (20 birr (about 80 pence), which pays for entrance, one beer, and the use of a camera). There is a pleasant green area, and two large swimming pools. From what I could make out, both pools seemed to be filled with drunk Ethiopians. But with the temperature at 29 degrees, who can blame them for going to unwind in the pool. The actual factory is well hidden, and the only sign that it exists is the sweet hops smell which hangs over the compound.
The visit was funny in many ways. There was properly a good 200 people sitting around, drinking Meta beer. A few people had a bit too much to drink, but most people seemed pretty relaxed. At one point, a bride and groom arrived, and walked passed everyone to go and have their photo taken by the waterfall. One of the bride's maids carried the bride's dress to ensure it didn't get dirty, while one of the page boys ran ahead clearing the way. Despite this, neither bride nor groom seemed pretty happy at the prospect that they were about to spend their life together. I felt that this was a shame in many ways, especially as they walked right by the "£1 camel ride" camel. Yes, a real camel was there, ready to carry drunks from the bar to the waterfall and back. I certainly think that I wouldn't stop laughing were I to have a camel at my wedding. And if the camel didn't work, the bride and groom could have had a go on the guns that could be hired. You might think that the combination of beer and firearms isn't up there with Torvel and Dean as an ideal partnership. But it seemed to work here. People wold stroll out of the bar, hand over some money, and have a go at hitting a few targets with an air-gun. The gun owner would politely hold your beer while you shoot.
Meta beer is one of the seven excellent beers Ethiopia produces. It has a malty, slightly bitter taste. It hasn't been one of my favourites, but today, sitting amongst the unhappy bride and groom, the camel, and the guns, it developed a certain charm. Other excellent beers include Harar, made in (wait for it) Harar (interesting given that it is a strongly Muslim town); Dashen (the government owned beer - could you imagine Labour doing that?); St George (previously mentioned on this blog in the context of our world cup lose); and my personal favourite, Bedeley Special, which seems to be the stellar beer - slightly more expensive, only sold in the more refined establishments.
This afternoon, Margot and I visited the Meta Beer brewery. It's about 30 kilometres outside of Addis. It is best to describe it as a compound, with a waterfall at its centre. You pay to get in (20 birr (about 80 pence), which pays for entrance, one beer, and the use of a camera). There is a pleasant green area, and two large swimming pools. From what I could make out, both pools seemed to be filled with drunk Ethiopians. But with the temperature at 29 degrees, who can blame them for going to unwind in the pool. The actual factory is well hidden, and the only sign that it exists is the sweet hops smell which hangs over the compound.
The visit was funny in many ways. There was properly a good 200 people sitting around, drinking Meta beer. A few people had a bit too much to drink, but most people seemed pretty relaxed. At one point, a bride and groom arrived, and walked passed everyone to go and have their photo taken by the waterfall. One of the bride's maids carried the bride's dress to ensure it didn't get dirty, while one of the page boys ran ahead clearing the way. Despite this, neither bride nor groom seemed pretty happy at the prospect that they were about to spend their life together. I felt that this was a shame in many ways, especially as they walked right by the "£1 camel ride" camel. Yes, a real camel was there, ready to carry drunks from the bar to the waterfall and back. I certainly think that I wouldn't stop laughing were I to have a camel at my wedding. And if the camel didn't work, the bride and groom could have had a go on the guns that could be hired. You might think that the combination of beer and firearms isn't up there with Torvel and Dean as an ideal partnership. But it seemed to work here. People wold stroll out of the bar, hand over some money, and have a go at hitting a few targets with an air-gun. The gun owner would politely hold your beer while you shoot.
Meta beer is one of the seven excellent beers Ethiopia produces. It has a malty, slightly bitter taste. It hasn't been one of my favourites, but today, sitting amongst the unhappy bride and groom, the camel, and the guns, it developed a certain charm. Other excellent beers include Harar, made in (wait for it) Harar (interesting given that it is a strongly Muslim town); Dashen (the government owned beer - could you imagine Labour doing that?); St George (previously mentioned on this blog in the context of our world cup lose); and my personal favourite, Bedeley Special, which seems to be the stellar beer - slightly more expensive, only sold in the more refined establishments.
Sunday, 12 September 2010
Happy New Year
Saturday 11 September was new year’s day in Ethiopia. Ethiopia works on the Jacobean rather than the Georgian calendar, which we use. As such, Ethiopia is seven years “behind” us, making Saturday’s festival the start of 2003. The start of the new year was marked by artillery guns at midnight, and further shooting at 6am. Each time, the glass rattled in the frames in my house.
Alongside the start of the new year, Friday marked the end of Ramadan (Eid). This is one of the most important religious festivals for Ethiopia’s muslims, roughly 45% of the population (although some say only 25%).
You wouldn’t want to be a sheep in Ethiopia this weekend. To help celebrate these two huge festivals, sheep from across the Country were brought into the capital. One sheep should feed a large family. The going rate is around birr 600 (£30) for a whole sheep. For those feeling a bit flush, a tastier, tender sheep costs birr 1500 (£75). They are tied up, hooves and all, and stuck into car boots, onto shoulders, tied to the roofs of buses or simply dragged through the city. There was certainly a lot of damp, red stains on streets on Saturday. But there was also the odd sheep joyfully skipping through town, releasing that while their brothers and sisters were being boiled up in some stew somewhere, they were still alive.
The fact that Ethiopia’s new year is marked at a different time, kicking off a different year, really highlighted that things are different here, especially from the rest of Africa. The language is different (different script). The history is different (Ethiopia was the only country in Africa not to be colonised). The topography is different (Ethiopia has more mountains than any other African country). The food is different (where else in Africa - except Eritrea - is injera eaten?). The time is different (the clocks start at 6am here, so when it’s 9am it’s actually 3am). And the people are different: I’ve not travelled that much around Africa, but certainly Ethiopians seem to be taller, slighter and fairer than many other Africans.
I think this difference plays into a real sense of pride in Ethiopia: Muslim, Christian or non-believer, Ethiopians are proud of their identity. They feel that unlike some of other African countries, their recent history (and their long term history as a matter of fact) is a success: Corruption is low, conflict is rare, different ethnic groups get on well, the economy is growing - fast. This pride can at times make giving critical advice difficult. But having started to understand the country, and travel a bit (see the next blog), Ethiopia is right to feel proud. Lets just hope the new year 2003 brings continued success for Africa’s Exception.
Alongside the start of the new year, Friday marked the end of Ramadan (Eid). This is one of the most important religious festivals for Ethiopia’s muslims, roughly 45% of the population (although some say only 25%).
You wouldn’t want to be a sheep in Ethiopia this weekend. To help celebrate these two huge festivals, sheep from across the Country were brought into the capital. One sheep should feed a large family. The going rate is around birr 600 (£30) for a whole sheep. For those feeling a bit flush, a tastier, tender sheep costs birr 1500 (£75). They are tied up, hooves and all, and stuck into car boots, onto shoulders, tied to the roofs of buses or simply dragged through the city. There was certainly a lot of damp, red stains on streets on Saturday. But there was also the odd sheep joyfully skipping through town, releasing that while their brothers and sisters were being boiled up in some stew somewhere, they were still alive.
The fact that Ethiopia’s new year is marked at a different time, kicking off a different year, really highlighted that things are different here, especially from the rest of Africa. The language is different (different script). The history is different (Ethiopia was the only country in Africa not to be colonised). The topography is different (Ethiopia has more mountains than any other African country). The food is different (where else in Africa - except Eritrea - is injera eaten?). The time is different (the clocks start at 6am here, so when it’s 9am it’s actually 3am). And the people are different: I’ve not travelled that much around Africa, but certainly Ethiopians seem to be taller, slighter and fairer than many other Africans.
I think this difference plays into a real sense of pride in Ethiopia: Muslim, Christian or non-believer, Ethiopians are proud of their identity. They feel that unlike some of other African countries, their recent history (and their long term history as a matter of fact) is a success: Corruption is low, conflict is rare, different ethnic groups get on well, the economy is growing - fast. This pride can at times make giving critical advice difficult. But having started to understand the country, and travel a bit (see the next blog), Ethiopia is right to feel proud. Lets just hope the new year 2003 brings continued success for Africa’s Exception.
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