Debre Zeit and Lake Bishoftu (first trip outside of Addis)

I took a trip to Debre Zeit today. It’s a large-ish town, about 50km from Addis. The town itself isn’t much to write home about, but nearby are a number of attractive volcanic lakes. Their greenery (limlamay in Amharic) made a pleasant change to the diesel chuggers of Addis. There was a nice walk around the lakes, and I took a little boat out into the middle of one of the lakes. I also took a horse ride (the first time in my life - photos on Flicker soon). People were swimming about in the lakes, with bits of rubber attached to their backs to ensure they didn’t sink. Set alongside the swimming costumes were people in smart (and fairly shiny) suits, having wedding photos taken.

Near one of the lakes, a local businessman had built a holiday lodge from scratch. The lodge included six very welcoming rooms, with a friendly garden and a traditional coffee house. The coffee house was his big hope of getting in tourist: Apparently you and friends can book out the coffee house, order in a sheep or goat, and chew gently on the BBQed meat while you slosh strong coffee around your mouth and enjoy the view of the lake. He took the time to show me around (very proud to tell me that the showers had both hot and cold water), clearly keen that I would return soon. There were nice little touches: for example, the fact that each room was named by the herb growing in front of it. I was really impressed by the guy’s hard work, commitment and enthusiasm. I showed my gratitude by buying a coffee tree/plant (which one is it?) from the garden centre he also ran. Hopefully Wastnage Coffee will be a recongisable brand in all good UK stores soon.

On the way to Debre Zeit, you become really aware of how much the Chinese are doing here. In Africa, China is challenging the traditional model of development, by pumping in money into infrastructure and industry, and seemingly asking for little in return. From what the Chinese seem to be doing, at least on the surface, is positive. The asphalt dual carriage way I traveled on was Chinese made. The petrol stations I passed were Chinese. The newly established Chinese-Ethiopian Industrial Centre near Debre Zeit provides important local employment, especially for graduates of the nearby Addis Ababa Technical College (paid for, in part, by the Chinese). The chinese influence is so much here, that I counted six chinese restaurants between Addis and Debre Zeit.

Ethiopia has just launched its five year economic plan. Within the plan are ambitious Government targets of doubling the size of the economy (becoming £500 billion in size), and achieving year on year growth of 14% (current growth has been between 7% - 11% depending on whose figures you believe). While I think the plan will be a challenge, I really hope that it can be achieved. One of the benefits of the Government hitting the target would mean that Ethiopia would be able to feed itself. But one thing is for sure: For the plan to succeed, intensive infrastructure and industrial development, of the kind the Chinese (and Indians and Turks) are supporting, coupled with the entrepreneurial spirit of the lodge owner are going to be essential.